I can't compare it to the cad examples but meshmixer is definitely easier to use for small stl edits than blender, especially for things like cutting and keying parts. If you are just trying to make a pin smaller or hole larger, editing the xyz of specific points in blender may be easier depending on shape. Good luck!
I was in a simiar boat, but once I started learning it really took off and I couldn't find enough things to model/fix! I started with meshmixer, it's pretty simplified but still somewhat powerful and I think Windows only. Once I found stuff I couldn't do with it I switched to blender and now I'm much faster with it. I found there are some things each implements better so if having an issue I'll switch and try something else. I highly recommend picking one and watching youtube videos specific to what you want to change in a model
Edit: you may be able to get by on some of the connectors by lowering flow too, depends on how dialed in your printer is, everyone needs different tolerances
To add, you may not need to worry too much about setting up a firewall if your machine is behind a router/gateway that also has a firewall. There are arguments both ways, I would suggest researching that some. I did it because I could so why not, but I also only have wireguard exposed publicly so it may be over kill
I too read that it didn't work with docker but that was not my experience on Ubuntu 24.04. Maybe it's just docker desktop but I had all sorts of other issues with docker desktop and ditched it for plain docker, using lazydocker for an interface. I think one of the issues for outgoing connections at least is that IPs for the containers can change. I don't remember exactly what my setup is currently but you shouldn't have an issue opening up just specific ports mapped to a container while having default deny incoming. Not specific to containers but there are a few different Linux commands to get all ports and the processes listening on them, I used them extensively to debug my firewall setup. I can't remember them either off the top of my head but you should be able to google for your distro.
It drives me crazy that notes does not reorganize the list when you check things, but that's probably because it's just markdown. My wife also refuses to use it. Carnet is the google keep like alternative that I think would work for me, but the sharing isn't working currently, whenever the note is updated the share is removed.
Never used dockge sorry
Somewhat off topic but I've been using this lately and it's great https://github.com/jesseduffield/lazydocker. If all you want is a ui over docker this may be better than going all in on something like portainer
This is the exact opposite of my experience. We've been using codium in my org and 9/10 times it's garbage and they will not allow anything that is not on prem. I'm pretty consistently getting recommendations for methods that don't exist, invalid class names, things that look like the wrong language, etc. To get the recommendations I have to cancel out of auto complete, which is often times much better. It seems like it can make up for someone who doesn't have good workflows, shortcuts and a premium ide, but otherwise it's been a waste of time and money.
It's been a while since I've printed but I think both my sidewinder and voron do this. I don't remember having it after switching to abs. Painted on supports and wider extrusions helped a ton if I remember correctly. Good luck!
I can't remember if I reloaded a previous save or fast traveled out of there, but there is a way to heal down there I believe
It could be a lot of things. Temperature is a big one, are you letting the bed heat up completely for a consistent amount of time before each print, could heat be impacting your measurements, some things measure different when heated a bit? You probably aren't printing enclosed, but my voron for example expands upwards almost an entire layer over the first hour of printing. Is there an intermittent air flow that could be impacting how hot your bed really is? Have you verified there is no slop or backlash in your z lead screws and connections? I had decent results on my sidewinder using POM anti backlash nuts. Same for the stability of your measuring tool. Have you checked that it's not z tilt from turning off the motors between prints?
Honestly if your going to go through all this effort to make this work, and already have a pi, I would suggest instead upgrade the control board to something with extra fan headers, led heads, etc and switch to klipper, there have to be guides out there for your specific printer
Powering the fan from gpio pins probably isn't going to work out well either, they are 3.3v and 5v. Powering the fan from the PSU is going to be similar to powering a pi off it, I believe you should step the voltage down to what each needs, where the fan is 24v I think the pi is 5v. Your PSU is probably 115 or 220 v. For connectors I would expect to have to redo them yourself with micro fit, molex, jst or w/e you want and can get. On some of mine I just did single pin molex on the pins of the white female connector for fan headers, it doesn't lock but it works if you don't have a lot of movement. This page is awesome for connectors info https://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/common-jst-connector-types/
Per https://help.prusa3d.com/article/xbuddy-and-loveboard-electronics-wiring-mk4_413095 it looks like you dont have any fan headers, you might be able to repurpose the unused ambient sensor header but no clue sorry. You might try splicing off the part or hotend fan? If you really wanted to use the dc input you might need a voltage step down buck converter or something depending on what your PSU is putting out
You might be able to but you really shouldn't. At the best you wouldn't have control over fan speed. Find the wiring diagram for the board and use a fan header
Oh hey I kinda helped get this started in a very round about way! Nice to see the fluid integration, maybe if I do the mainsail one, someone else will do it a better way lol. I've not been printing much lately but set spoolman up a while ago on the pi running my voron and it's been great.
DM me for a steam key, its a duplicate from the recent humble bundle for me. First one gets it
edit: claimed, sorry everyone
How are the Spigen case for drops? Is it one type of material or two like the google? I was trying to avoid glass over the camera and just go with a sticker/skin
Magnetic is really important for me, how is that case with drops? I imagine it's pretty stiff/hard?
I can't quite seem to find a case I'm happy with. I usually get a plain clear all TPU case that is both pretty thin but good for drops. I don't care if it yellows and I don't really like the tough/OtterBox style bulky cases. I have the google case and my problems with it are the lack of camera bar coverage, I've already dinged mine, and how hard/not drop friendly the front half is. The back seems a little too soft, one of the corners is slightly torn from the previously mentioned drop, but I'd rather that than what the material of the front is. I picked up one of these from eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/314678008376 but it doesn't close all the way, doesn't fit great in some spots and is also a little too hard, otherwise it would be great. At this point I'm leaning toward just using the google case and trying to find a skin to cover the camera. I'm also willing to pay a bit more if it hits everything I want. Anyone have good suggestions?