I remember hearing on QI about a snake that eats a poisonous frog in order to become poisonous itself. Don't think it was Australian but who knows.
The point of use flags is to make it so if you don't want to print, every package that would otherwise pull in CUPS as a dependency can be compiled without it. Stuff like that.
Gentoo also has a good system for handling multiple concurrent installs of different versions of some packages, e.g python.
If there's software you want to install from source that uses automake it's pretty simple to build your own package for it.
Very much a system for doing things your way, and a good way to learn linux IMO. To that end, no there is no installer, but the process is not that complex. Boot a live USB, partition and format a drive, download and extract a base system, install a kernel (there is a fits-most-needs one available now), install a bootloader. Reboot into your new system and continue installing what you need from there.
Not for me, I fear. If I'm playing a turn based game I don't want there to be reflex challenges.
Sounds interesting, I'd try it but I'm lazy.
However, I will say that anyone who openly condemns this -- or any food preference -- without trying it is the biggest whiney poopoo baby coward on the planet.
I remember reading an anecdote about a guy's kid relative, who would describe a game they want to play (not even make themselves), and before describing mechanics even they listed out all the hypothetical microtransactions.
I personally prefer like/dislike over a star rating system. Maybe, MAYBE having a middle "meh" rating would be helpful but at the end of the day you either recommend something or you don't. If you ask a friend "should I play this?" and they say "idk man" that's basically a recommendation to not play it.
There's hope for me yet, then. Though I think FS have long since sailed from what I liked about Soulslikes into something else entirely.
I definitely agree on the lack of local / direct connection options.
I don't think this is a graphics problem. I think people are just tired of silent protags. I mean, people were starting to make fun of it even when HL2 was new, enough so that the game actually draws attention to it in order to lampshade the issue somewhat.
Hm, fair point. I personally hate external accounts because it makes your ownership of your purchase that little bit more tenuous. Your continued access is now contingent on Valve remaining extant and good, Epic remaining extant and… tolerable, and the game's servers, assuming EFD has those and offers no local / P2P option. Admittedly if that last is the case, you would hope if things fell through with Epic that the publishers would come up with some other solution, but I know it took a LONG time for most games that straddled the Steam+GFWL boundary to become playable again after GFLW died. And I'm not sure if they all did.
I am tempted to agree with you. I could see some theoretical scenario where some influencer with a large following convinces them to all review something poorly just because they say so. If that happened, I think it would be legitimate to call it review bombing. I don't think it's likely, mind you, that someone could convince a large enough group of people to do that without a valid reason. But it could theoretically happen.
So I'd like to have a video doorbell set up so that it communicates locally with my HA, raising an event when the button is pressed, allowing me to watch its audio and video stream live, and speak back to whoever is at the door. Ideally either from the browser or my phone, when I'm at home or not.
I don't care about motion sensing or AI or even NVR functions really. What software do I need? Should I bother going through the process of setting up Frigate or is there something simpler that would do the job?
cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/15565311
> It was a long running project, but I finally did it. I built what I'm calling a smart mailbox that communicates the presence of mail locally with Home Assistant via ESPHome. > > Parts: > - Pine plank roughly the width of my mailbox > - Treated pine plank for mounting > - Thin sheet of perspex or similar transparent plastic > - 2x VCNL4010 proximity sensor > - ESP32 dev board with antenna > - Bigger antenna > - Prototype board > - 2.54mm pitch JST connectors > - 2.54mm pitch pin header sockets > - 18650 battery > - 18650 Type-C charging module > - Battery holder > - 2x 5V 1.5W solar panels > - MCP1700-3302E LDO regulator > - 100uF electrolytic capacitor > - 100nF ceramic capacitor > - Resistors... I think I ended up using a 1 MOhm and a 330 kOhm > - Weatherproof junction box > - Nylon screw spacers > - Cable glands > - 12mm waterproof button > - Various cables and wires > - Paint and polyurethane spray to weatherproof the wood > > Tools: > - Soldering iron > - Router for cutting grooves in wood > - Drill and hole saw bits > - Various files and sandpaper > > For a start, I followed this guide to get me started on the power delivery portion, but I ended up using much higher valued resistors since I found that I was losing more battery charge through the voltage divider than I was from the ESP32 or proximity sensors. > > Once I'd tested the concept with the parts just laying in a jumble on the table, it was time to get to work. > > I started by cutting a plank of pine to fit my mailbox, chamfering the ends to make space for the metal joins. I routed out some spaces for the tops of the bolts that hold the mailbox down. > > ! > > Measured out where the sensors should go, along with a surrounding space to screw down some little perspex windows to cover them. The idea I wanted was for the mail to be able to slide over the sensors without getting caught on them, as well as to protect them from dust. > > ! > > Routed out the dents and cleaned them up with a chisel and sandpaper. Cut the perspex to shape for a test fit. > > ! > > On the other side, I routed out a notch for the cable to access the sensors. > > ! > > I had originally planned to just solder wires into the sensors, but then I realised JST connectors would fit perfectly into the sensors. This meant I had to widen the holes somewhat, which I did with a small chisel and file. > > ! > > I got a bit lazy with making screw holes to hold down the perspex, so they're not in as neat a place as I'd like. If I did this again I'd measure properly for their placement. Still, with countersinking they hold down the perspex well and nothing sticks up for mail to get caught on. > > ! > > I also got started on making a housing for the solar panels. I used the router to carve out a 1-2mm area for them to sit in, and a much deeper ditch linking the two terminals, which you'll see in a later picture. For now, here's how they look sitting in it. > > ! > ! > > Wiring up the prototype board was next. Again, see the article I linked above for how this works. I used pin headers to allow the ESP32 dev board to be slotted in and out, just in case I ever needed to take it out for replacement or reprogramming. Also the JSTs on the prototype board are for connecting the battery (top left), connecting the solar panels (bottom left), providing power to the sensors (bottom right) and clock and data lines for the sensors (top right). Since the sensors are both using the same I2C bus address and cannot be configured otherwise, I had to run two clock and data lines, but if I'd found sensors that could have different addresses I could have just used one of each. I didn't take a photo of the board at this stage, but I later added another header to connect a button to reset the ESP32 from the outside. > > ! > > I also made the data and power cable for the sensor board. > > ! > > The solar panel housing and 'sensor plate' were both painted and treated with polyurethane spray to protect them from rain and humidity. > > ! > ! > > I drilled holes in the weatherproof box to fix the cable glands and the weatherproof button. In the case of the solar panel wire, I had opted to buy speaker wire since I figured it would be easier to run in the channel between the two solar panels, being flat. But that also made it not really fit the cable glands that great. I ended up stripping some of the outer sheath off some 2 wire power cable I had, and wrapping that around the part of the speaker wire that gets clamped in the glands, just to make a reasonable seal. These all were on the side I decided I would mount at the bottom, so water wouldn't be able to easily fall into the box. > > ! > > Final test fit. I later used epoxy glue to glue down the nylon headers and the battery holder inside the box. > > ! > > The mailbox itself also needed a hole in the bottom for the sensor cable to come out. After drilling a hole and filing it into a square shape, I cut some rubber grommet strip to size and fitted it around the hole, with some marine silicone adhesive to protect the sharp metal edges from water and to hold the grommet strip in place. > > ! > > I'd drilled some holes in the brick wall my mailbox sits upon for masonry anchors, and this piece of treated pine got the last of my polyurethane spray, just in case. > > ! > > Using a two pieces of the leftover perspex glued together, I made an internal mount for the antenna, figuring it would be best to not have the thing either floating around freely inside the box or sticking out the side where people could potentially break it off. > > ! > ! > > Finally, after weeks of off and on work, it was ready to install. > > ! > ! > > The ESPHome coding used my VCNL4010 component, and if anyone is interested I can share it but it's kinda a large file.
It was a long running project, but I finally did it. I built what I'm calling a smart mailbox that communicates the presence of mail locally with Home Assistant via ESPHome.
Parts:
- Pine plank roughly the width of my mailbox
- Treated pine plank for mounting
- Thin sheet of perspex or similar transparent plastic
- 2x VCNL4010 proximity sensor
- ESP32 dev board with antenna
- Bigger antenna
- Prototype board
- 2.54mm pitch JST connectors
- 2.54mm pitch pin header sockets
- 18650 battery
- 18650 Type-C charging module
- Battery holder
- 2x 5V 1.5W solar panels
- MCP1700-3302E LDO regulator
- 100uF electrolytic capacitor
- 100nF ceramic capacitor
- Resistors... I think I ended up using a 1 MOhm and a 330 kOhm
- Weatherproof junction box
- Nylon screw spacers
- Cable glands
- 12mm waterproof button
- Various cables and wires
- Paint and polyurethane spray to weatherproof the wood
Tools:
- Soldering iron
- Router for cutting grooves in wood
- Drill and hole saw bits
- Various files and sandpaper
For a start, I followed this guide to get me started on the power delivery portion, but I ended up using much higher valued resistors since I found that I was losing more battery charge through the voltage divider than I was from the ESP32 or proximity sensors.
Once I'd tested the concept with the parts just laying in a jumble on the table, it was time to get to work.
I started by cutting a plank of pine to fit my mailbox, chamfering the ends to make space for the metal joins. I routed out some spaces for the tops of the bolts that hold the mailbox down.
Measured out where the sensors should go, along with a surrounding space to screw down some little perspex windows to cover them. The idea I wanted was for the mail to be able to slide over the sensors without getting caught on them, as well as to protect them from dust.
Routed out the dents and cleaned them up with a chisel and sandpaper. Cut the perspex to shape for a test fit.
On the other side, I routed out a notch for the cable to access the sensors.
I had originally planned to just solder wires into the sensors, but then I realised JST connectors would fit perfectly into the sensors. This meant I had to widen the holes somewhat, which I did with a small chisel and file.
I got a bit lazy with making screw holes to hold down the perspex, so they're not in as neat a place as I'd like. If I did this again I'd measure properly for their placement. Still, with countersinking they hold down the perspex well and nothing sticks up for mail to get caught on.
I also got started on making a housing for the solar panels. I used the router to carve out a 1-2mm area for them to sit in, and a much deeper ditch linking the two terminals, which you'll see in a later picture. For now, here's how they look sitting in it.
Wiring up the prototype board was next. Again, see the article I linked above for how this works. I used pin headers to allow the ESP32 dev board to be slotted in and out, just in case I ever needed to take it out for replacement or reprogramming. Also the JSTs on the prototype board are for connecting the battery (top left), connecting the solar panels (bottom left), providing power to the sensors (bottom right) and clock and data lines for the sensors (top right). Since the sensors are both using the same I2C bus address and cannot be configured otherwise, I had to run two clock and data lines, but if I'd found sensors that could have different addresses I could have just used one of each. I didn't take a photo of the board at this stage, but I later added another header to connect a button to reset the ESP32 from the outside.
I also made the data and power cable for the sensor board.
The solar panel housing and 'sensor plate' were both painted and treated with polyurethane spray to protect them from rain and humidity.
And the panels themselves were sealed in with a tonne of silicone. It made a real mess, but I'm confident no water is going to get in there.
I drilled holes in the weatherproof box to fix the cable glands and the weatherproof button. In the case of the solar panel wire, I had opted to buy speaker wire since I figured it would be easier to run in the channel between the two solar panels, being flat. But that also made it not really fit the cable glands that great. I ended up stripping some of the outer sheath off some 2 wire power cable I had, and wrapping that around the part of the speaker wire that gets clamped in the glands, just to make a reasonable seal. These all were on the side I decided I would mount at the bottom, so water wouldn't be able to easily fall into the box.
Final test fit. I later used epoxy glue to glue down the nylon headers and the battery holder inside the box. This means the prototype board can also be easily removed, as can the ESP32 dev board and the battery, but the battery holder cannot. Let's hope I never have to get that thing out.
The mailbox itself also needed a hole in the bottom for the sensor cable to come out. After drilling a hole and filing it into a square shape, I cut some rubber grommet strip to size and fitted it around the hole, with some marine silicone adhesive to protect the sharp metal edges from water and to hold the grommet strip in place.
I'd drilled some holes in the brick wall my mailbox sits upon for masonry anchors, and this piece of treated pine got the last of my polyurethane spray, just in case.
Using a two pieces of the leftover perspex glued together, I made an internal mount for the antenna, figuring it would be best to not have the thing either floating around freely inside the box or sticking out the side where people could potentially break it off.
Finally, after weeks of off and on work, it was ready to install.
The ESPHome coding used my VCNL4010 component, and if anyone is interested I can share it but it's kinda a large file. I had originally planned to just use Arduino IDE and talk directly to MQTT, in order to keep things simple and just use the Adafruit VCNL4010 library, but in the end elected to use ESPHome. For, among other things, its support for over the air updates.
VCNL4010 component for ESPHome. Contribute to dixonte/esphome-vcnl4010 development by creating an account on GitHub.
cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/12979137
> I made an ESPHome external component for the VCNL4010 proximity sensor. > > Hopefully it's of use to someone.
VCNL4010 component for ESPHome. Contribute to dixonte/esphome-vcnl4010 development by creating an account on GitHub.
I made an ESPHome external component for the VCNL4010 proximity sensor.
Hopefully it's of use to someone.
