10mo ago

Big stringing problem with flsun SR and Orcaslicer

Ok guys, I'm breaking down and posting here to see if anyone has any ideas. I'm greatful for any advice.

I have an upgraded flsun SR. I recently lost my computer (psu issue, waiting for replacement) and I took this opportunity to switch from Cura to Orcaslicer.

Over-all I'm very happy, and getting some good speeds, but I just cannot remove stringing no matter what I try:

Retraction from 0-7mm. After about 3mm, no further effect
Retraction speed from 30mm/s-50mm/s. No noticable effect
Travel speed and acceleration both high (up to 350mm/s and 6000 accel. No effect
Temp from 205-215 with no effect
Dried filament and different colours, no effect
Wipe on retract on and off, up to 2mm wipe distance and 100% retraction. No effect
Messed with scarf seams on and off, no effect
No effect from layer heights

My setup:

Printer - FLSun SR running klipper with a speede pad
Filament - Esun PLA+
Upgrades - Deported fans, OMG v2 extruder, volcano hotend and high flow cht nozzle

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11 comments

lemann gave some good points. Since you already tried so many things like lower temp than recommended and drying, I guess bowden tube might be loose (there should be no play at all). Or just a bad filament? I know esun is quite popular, but I never tried it.
What size of the nozzle you use? Bigger nozzle = more stringing
It is hard to avoid stringing with PETG, but for PLA it shouldn't be a problem at all. My bowden extruder with 3 mm retraction has 0 stringing with Polymaker Polyterra PLA. Even with 1 mm stringing is almost gone completely. I found Polymaker much better with stringing than DevilDesign or AzureFilm that I used before.
- I know esun is quite popular, but I never tried it.
  I've generally had the best results with it. Ironically, before the upgrades I had almost no stringing.
  I'm using a 0.4mm nozzle. I probably should have mentioned in the OP that I didn't have problems before, but the upgrades have happened in addition to moving to Orcaslicer.
  Now I'm worried if I've got my Bowden tube seated in the hotend correctly...
  
  Now I’m worried if I’ve got my Bowden tube seated in the hotend correctly…
  Just pull/push the tube with your hands. If there is no play you are good, but if there is:
  Inspect the bowden tube ends and cut them if they are worn out
  Push the bowden tube in the fitting.
  While pushing it in, press the collet down
  Then pull it out with a nail and then zip tie it
  I found original clips too thin, zip ties are much better IMO. It helped me remove stringing completely while using half of the retraction distance (using 0.6 nozzle)
  
  After sleeping on it, I remembered that my new heatbreak doesn't feed the bowden all the way to the end of the nozzle like the stock one does, so I'm pretty sure I have it seated correctly. I'll check it though, many thanks for the info! :)

11 comments