!

I'm actually not afraid of printing things larger than a few square inches on the bed.... Waited way too long for this. Tightening up the eccentric screws on the bed carriage so it doesn't wobble also helps.

Conference in outside Baltimore, MD.

Also good for composting and making room in your recycling bin

Lots of stringing but as I understand that's normal for TPU. Printed at 225⁰C on a 30⁰ bed, stock Ender 3 S1. 0 retraction, 0.93 flow, 35mm/s for most speeds

The Super Notendo is now fully universal you just need to go through the effort of making 4 very, very small USB cables.

I got some blank male and female ports and cut wires that were just long enough. It's cramped but it works!

Both versions here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6771121

Thank you guys for pointing out the vref issue in my last post! I got it adjusted, and they were all fairly high so now they should be dialed in. While I was in there, I figured I should probably calibrate the extrusion steps as well.

I’ve got a couple larger projects coming down the pipeline. But if I can go off of this cube, I think I’ll be in good shape.

Hi there!

I'm looking into getting myself a good printer and I am wondering if I need to install some platform-specific drivers for them to run. I am running Debian 12 (GNU/Linux) and I am afraid that I must run some proprietary blob to connect to the printer.

Could someone share their experience please? Even if you don't use Linux, your feedback would be very appreciated!

(Also, while you are at it, please share some recommendations for printers, I don't really know where to go (>v<) Have about +-500€ )

1)You get thru downloading the thing since it advertises support for your printer, 2)Click on it to start using it right? 3)Right? 4)X out of the login window because you don't have a login and don't want one thanks. 5) Put the newly downloaded file in the trash bin. 6) Right click on the trash bin and "empty trash" 7-10) Relax for a bit since you don't have yet another data collecting app spying on you. But then post about how shitty the experience was.

I can't believe anyone would actually create a login to use an app like this. Fuck that. I will just use shitty chitubox for now. Fuck^2, but at least I don't live in some shit server with all my 3D models stolen or my credit card or GPS or whatever the fuck they want to get from me. I'm sure chitubox is already doing it, but hey I don't need a password for that.

My (first?) 3d printer arrives tomorrow. I've been researching for months. One category I've been looking into is 3d modeling software. They all have drawbacks (too expensive, too hard to learn, save files in the cloud, etc) but the one that seems to fit the best is this apparently new one called Plasticity. I'd be willing to spend the $150 and then decide after a year if I want to re-up or just keep the current version. Or maybe I'd upgrade every few years or something.

Anyway, there are a bunch of great reviews and tutorials but they're all over a year old, from when looks like the software was first released.

I'm wondering if anyone here has experience with it and could advise if it's worth the $150.

Just got my Saturn 4 ultra, and it just doesn't seem to be very good. I'm toying with the idea of sending it back and paying the restocking fee, but that's a lot of money (and shipping fuel, etc, etc) to waste.

Upgraded from a Mars 2 Pro and Mars 4, and I just can't believe how clunky the Saturn is. The build plate is too tall and too crammed into the case to make a decent tilting adapter, and a ton of resin gets wasted when removing parts. The touchscreen UI is almost as bad as the Mars 4, with horrible use of screen space (multiple prints with same name but different date at the end? Too bad, you can't see any part of the title past the first two words) and poorly designed features.

I'd be interested to know if anyone has this printer or a similar one figured out, and is actually enjoying using it.

!

!

My wife likes to sculpt model horses for fun and she wanted some base heads that she could attach and sculpt/paint over. So I made her some of these little guys.

The following is a 14 minute edutainment upload presenting the funicular hanging chain and other techniques of deriving optimal structural compression geometry using the opposite form in pure tension (sounds more complicated than it is), by Architecture and Design Professor Stewart Hicks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRv_syz2DAc

This is a must watch as it shortcuts math and modeling in useful ways for design with minimal materials. I'm sharing as a 3d printing FreeCAD parts designer that likes to integrate all elements without printed supports in every possible case. The funicular draping chain idea is very much adjacent to how I think about integrating elements into a print design. I have designed with shells that integrate my structural elements, but this upload was an aha moment that takes my empirical design process to a new conceptual level. Modeling structural elements and knowing the math to apply can be challenging, but this kind of principal is a very useful shortcut. More info in article form: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Funicular_curve

The old "leather" was falling of my polaroid sx-70 camera. So I printed some new skins.

I'm not sure about the colour yet. Thinking more about some kind of red or turquoise. But the test worked.

I went looking for a fun case to house a RP 5 for a RetroPie build but everything was either super minimal or just very unattractive to look at.

This is my lovechild of a NES with a Famicom Twin

I designed this to be a bit bigger, take a standard 12mm switch, house an RP 5, and a convenient power button. I also added a standard 40mm exhaust fan hole.

I designed this to fit a hat as well but I haven't tested it.

I'll happily share the STLs if anyone is interested. I am working on posting to Thingiverse now.

It looks like this should fit any model Pi but naturally YMMV.

I left the print over the weekend and I came back to spaghetti. It looks like something, caused the printer to push the print off its base like it was a poorly leveled bed?

I still have to watch the camera footage to see what failed, but I hope you guys get a chuckle out of the spaghetti monster like I did.

!

I have been trying for many hours now to print this circular model, but have been running into inconsistent extrusion and stringing. just before printing this, I successfully printed a set of Hextraction tiles, so I'm not really sure what the issue is. I also printed this model successfully in the past with the same settings.

I am using a Sovol SV06 with stock firmware, and PLA with the hotend at 195° C.

I also did a full calibration to see if that would fix the issue, and it did not.

Hi, I've tried to print a model plane for my father. It's this model, using this LW-PLA right after purchase.

As you can see in the image of this post, the print is going well until it reaches a certain layer, where the filament does not get deposited properly for the entire layer, only intermittently. The following layers then, of course, have the same problem and I get this failed print with these "frayed ends". Additional attempts failed the same way at a similar layer count.

If someone has some experience with lightweight PLA (LW-PLA) and knows what can be done to solve this, I and my father would greatly appreciate the help.

Thanks in advance.

Edit: Additional info: I'm using the PrusaSlicer files from the linked page. Edit2: The printer is Prusa Mk4.

So I was attempting to install kevinakasam's belt mod and I'm fairly sure I stripped the thread that holds the M4 screw in the outer right side of the X axis profile (the side without the extruder attached to the tensioner). How screwed am I? Could I get away with trying Loctite red?

Pics for reference!

Edit: Thanks a ton everyone, I'll keep you all up to date when I try to finish the project this weekend!

I've been playing some gyroscope based racing games on my phone and thought it would be cool to have a physical steering wheel to hold.

Since I already have a magsafe ring stuck to the back of my OnePlus Open I designed it to use magnets.

Functionally it makes the games way easier to play since you can really precisely tilt the phone. You can even steer one-handed pretty easily too

The magnets I used are a little weak so I'll be replacing that with another stronger magnet ring I have

Designed in fusion 360, printed in pla+ on K1max

I'm thinking about buying a 3D printer for creating cosplay props like helmets and armor pieces (only once I figure things out, I'll start small of course) among other things and since there is a sale on the Ender 3 V3 series and they seem to be well received I figured that it would make sense to buy one. Having done some research, it seems like the regular V3 with it's 220x220x250mm build volume is too small for what I'm planning to do. Though splitting some parts will of course still be required, from what I could gather the V3 Plus better matches the recommended build volume having one of 300x300x330mm. The sale puts it at about the original price of the regular V3 which works for my budget.

I'd love to hear some thoughts on this, since my knowledge is limited as well as theoretical and the quality of internet sources varies quite heavily.

Edit: Thanks to everyone for the help! Just an update.

Thanks to @nate3d and @IMALlama comments below I calibrated the e-steps that were very under and it improved a lot.

I left the filament on the dryer for 8 hours and tested again with a 20mm /s speed and 220 C print temp and it was better (picture below)

Just to answer you all saying it's a clog or a hot end problem, it's not, the whole hot end, includong nozzle, heat block and everything else, even the PTFE tube are all brand new and I checked before.

This is still the best I could achieve and It took 3 hours to print this benchy lol !

‐-------- Hi everyone, I'm once again asking for your help lol Since I’ve tried to print with wood I totally wrecked my printer so I changed the hot end and am trying to set it all up again. Since my printer already came built and working I don’t have much experience with things like this so if you could help me I would be very thankful

What do I need to twerk to make it print better again?

I’m using Cura slicer and trying to print a benchy with the settings below:

Nozzle: 0.4

Layer: 0.2

Printing temp: 220 (it wont print with lower temp)

Speed: 60

Retraction distance: 7

Retraction speed: 70

Edit: PLA

Was having clogging issues so I thought I'd replace and get the mythically good capricorn tubes. This is a good sign that I needed to.

I need to print a discontinued part for my car, I have an .stl file for the part, I just don't have a 3D printer. It's a speaker mount.

What online print service have you used that you can recommend? Thank you!

Edit: located in the US.

I've been considering getting refills to reduce my plastic consumption, which means I would have to print master spools with PLA or PETG.

Because I don't consume my filament quickly enough, I got the Sunlu S2 filament dryer, which heats up the filament to 50-60C.

My question is: would it be OK to put a master spool in the dryer, or could it potentially deform?

I'm printing with PLA on a "PEO" print bed (really a textured PEI), on my heavily modified ender 3, and there's a pattern on the bottom of my first layer that I'm trying to get rid of. The top of the first layer looks fine, and changing the z offset in either direction doesn't help. I've also tried slowing down the print speed because I thought the extruder might be skipping, but I'm still seeing it at 10mm/s. Any idea what could be causing it, and how to get rid of it?

Pic: https://sh.itjust.works/pictrs/image/31cd6cef-16de-47b3-995f-197f7d0b432d.jpeg

Edit: the first layer went down from the bottom left to the top right, but the pattern I'm seeing is perpendicular to the extruder path

If a 0.4mm nozzle is 4x the area of a 0.2mm nozzle, should I print 4x faster with a 0.2mm nozzle?

Context - I think I'm having heat creep and printing too slow. (ender 3, pla 210c)

I foudn this program https://www.thearmoredgarage.com/ and just wondering if anyone has any experience with it and if it's worth buying or not?

Copying this from reddit. I am not OP.

Hello All! If you are planning on coming to 3DPrintopia in Bel Air, MD on September 28th and 29th this year, please consider printing, signing, and bringing along a blue tile for the "Layer Connections" Community Art Project. Spearheaded by stlDenise3D and 3DPrintBunny, the project has already collected roses at the Midwest RepRap Festival (MRRF) and the Rocky Mountain RepRap Festival (RMRRF). It'll be making a final stop at the Sanjay Memorial RepRap Festival (SMRRF) at the end of the year.

More details on the project and links to the STL files can be found here. The main stipulation is your tile be a shade of blue. Come 3D Print with us! A Community 3D Printed Art Project ⋆ stlDenise3D https://stldenise3d.com/come-3d-print-with-us-community-3d-printed-art-project/

Source https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1f5wk6p/layer_connections_community_art_project/

Source https://x.com/UncleJessy4Real/status/1829869388872159286

Full video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKd9X-wl8Rg

This is the temp tower of my wood print experiment Cand even se much difference. It goes from 260 to 190. Below 225 gets really flimsy and above 240 melts. But even 230, the "best" one is really bad, and I'm not talking about retraction. Even the layers that melt are inconsistent.

Also it's not humidity since the filament was in a filament dryer for.16hours.

edit: The nozzle is 0.8

can someone think of anything else?

I have an indoor/outdoor thermometer to keep track of how hot the back of my Expedition gets. I drive pretty regularly with two dogs in the back, and over the summer and winter the temps can get a little extreme.

I need to be able to take it out to keep an eye on it remotely (it has about 1/4 mile range) but also have it not rolling around while I drive.

There was a coin holder there that I popped out, and used as a template for an insert to keep this mounted semi-permanently.

Printed with kinda crappy Amazon Basics PETG. If it holds up well, I'll reprint it with better quality black PETG so it matches the car better.

I was experimenting with bottom patterns in Orca and octagon spiral looked cool. I tried it with RGB filament and it came out amazing!

There is a depth to it and it changes with the angle

I haven't seen this before online so figured I'd share!

I want to mount a printed part to a standard 2mm motor axis which doesn't have any dents or profile. Its just round. If I print at exactly 2mm, it fits for the first few times until it gets too lose and the spinning part sometimes falls off.

Is there software that will automatically cut large STLs based on the printer you have or is cutting something you just have to do manually?